With a population of just 2600, WRANGELL , the second stop on the ferry system, is altogether quieter than Ketchikan and has a distinctly old-fashioned feel. Right in the busy harbor, accessible by a short boardwalk, Chief Shakes Island holds an excellent collection of totem poles and a replica tribal house filled with Tlingit blankets. The ancient rock carvings at Petroglyph Beach , half a mile or so north of town along Evergreen Avenue, date back as far as 7500 years and are only obscured during high tide.

Ferries dock right in town but seldom stop over long enough to allow explorations of the sights, so you may want to stay: try the campground at City Park (one night max; free), less than two miles south on Zimovia Highway, or the clean and central Wrangell Hostel , 220 Church St (tel 907/874-3534; up to $35), a Presbyterian Church where $15 gets you a thin mattress on the floor. The airport , with daily connections to other Southeastern towns, is a mile and a half north of town, and you'll find the visitor center (Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; tel 907/874-3901) inside the Sitkine Inn on Front Street.

Wrangell

• Wrangell

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