Just west of Birmingham city limits, I-20/59 passes BESSEMER , a likeable small town named in 1887 after Sir Henry Bessemer, the English engineer who perfected the steel-making process. The Hall of History Museum here, in the 1916 Southern Railroad depot at 1905 Alabama Ave, displays Native American artifacts alongside exhibits from the industrial pioneer years (Tues-Sat 9am-12pm & 1-4pm; free). Bob Sykes , 1724 Ninth Ave (tel 205/426-1400), is a mouthwatering takeout barbecue joint in town.

TUSCALOOSA , home of the lively main campus of the University of Alabama, but little else of interest, lies 32 miles southwest of Bessemer. If you're hungry, combine eating with a view of the Black Warrior River at Henson's Cypress Inn , 501 Rice Mine Rd N (tel 205/345-6963), which specializes in keenly priced seafood and catfish. Sixteen miles south on US-69, the Moundville Archeological Park (8am-8pm) preserves twenty earthen mounds, carpeted in lush grass, with the largest supporting a rebuilt Native American temple. An estimated three thousand people lived here on the banks of the Black Warrior during the twelfth century; the on-site museum (daily 9am-5pm; $4) exhibits items found in burial grounds, including jewelry, ceremonial vessels and a few skeletons.

West of Birmingham

• West of Birmingham

Alabama cities


All U.S. city guides