Higher, bleaker and far less accessible than the South Rim, the NORTH RIM of the Grand Canyon receives less than a tenth as many visitors. While that doesn't mean you'll have the place to yourself, it can still make you feel as though you're venturing into unexplored wilderness. The basic principle, however, is the same as at the South Rim, with a cluster of venerable park-service buildings where the main highway reaches the canyon, and a handful of rim-edge roads where drivers can take their pick from additional lookouts. Only one hiking trail sees much use, the North Kaibab Trail , which follows Bright Angel Creek down to Phantom Ranch.

Tourist facilities on the North Rim, concentrated at Bright Angel Point , open for the season on May 15 and close on October 15. Accommodation at the Grand Canyon Lodge ($75-100) is in cabins that spread back along the ridge from the Lodge entrance, very few of which have canyon views. Advance reservations are essential, and are handled by the same agents as for the South Rim: Amfac Parks & Resorts, 14001 E Iliff Ave, #600, Aurora, CO 80014 (same-day tel 928/638-2631, advance tel 303/297-2757, ). Just over a mile north is the North Rim Campground , where $15 spaces can be reserved - though it's not necessary for backpackers - through Biospherics (tel 1-800/365-2267). The Lodge also holds a reasonable restaurant , plus a saloon and an espresso bar; ask at the information desk for details of mule rides (1hr $20, half-day $45, full-day canyon expeditions $100; tel 435/679-8665), and van tours along the rim.

The park itself remains open for day-use only after October 15, but no food, lodging or gas is available, and visitors must be prepared to leave at a moment's notice. It's shut down altogether by the first major snowfall of winter, which usually comes toward the end of October

North Rim

• North Rim

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