You could hardly find a more intriguing day-trip out from San Diego than Tijuana , just over the border in Mexico. While far from the most culturally rich place in Mexico, every year twenty million people cross here from the US. Most of them are Californians and tourists on day-long shopping expeditions, seeking somewhere cheap and colorful to spend money on blankets, pottery, cigarettes, tequila, dentistry, car repair, and, more recently, pharmaceutical drugs - available through many of the town's cut-rate pharmacies and usually without a prescription. Keep in mind, though, that while everything is lower-priced in Tijuana than in the US, the quality and safety of the merchandise are sometimes questionable.

Although you can't help but be made aware of the vast economic gulf separating the two countries - you're immediately confronted by shabbily dressed food vendors and children selling woven bracelets and gum - Tijuana is, in fact, one of the wealthiest Mexican cities, and somewhat safer than it was a decade ago. The main streets and shopping areas are a few blocks from the border in downtown, where the major thoroughfare is Avenida Revolución. Stroll around for a while to get the mood and then retire to one of the many bars and watch the tourist throngs lubricate themselves with potent margaritas. At night, the action mostly consists of inebriated North American youths dancing themselves silly in flashy discos and rowdy rock'n'roll bars. Iguanas-Ranas (Avenida Revolución at Calle 3; tel 66/85-14-22) is a good example, and for big food and revelry, check out Tia Juana Tilly's (Avenida Revolución at Calle 7; tel 66/85-60-24), where you can sample traditional Mexican specialties such as roast pig and chicken mole (mo-lay).

Heavy traffic, and insurance problems, make crossing into Mexico by car a risky business; from San Diego you can take either the Trolley ($4 round-trip) or bus #932 from Santa Fe Railroad Depot. However, if you do decide to drive into Mexico, invest in auto insurance , which can be had for as little as $10 per day in San Ysidro. Dollars are accepted as readily as pesos, so there's no need to change money , though prices are better if you do. Border formalities are minimal: you only need a Mexican Tourist Card (free from consulates in the US or at the Mexican Customs office just inside the Tijuana side of the border) if you're planning to go further than 75 miles into the country or stay for more than three days. Returning to the US, however, even within a single day, immigration procedures are stringent - even joking about smuggling weapons or illegal drugs can bring a humiliating interrogation, so be wary of saying or doing anything foolish. Hotels are cheap, with many low-cost lodgings close to the center. At the lowest end of the price scale is Hotel Jaliscense , Calle 1 #7925 (tel 66/85-34-91; up to $35); slightly more upmarket, La Villa de Zaragoza , Avenida Madero 1120 (tel 66/85-18-32; $50-75), has clean rooms with air conditioning and cable TV; and Camino Real , Paseo de los Heroes 10305 (tel 66/33-40-01, ; $100-130), best of all, has plush rooms and two fine restaurants and bars.

Tijuana: A taste of Mexico

• Tijuana: A taste of Mexico

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