Most of eastern San Diego County, which otherwise consists largely of sleepy suburban communities, is taken up by the more than 600,000-acre Anza-Borrego Desert , much of it a state park (free; $5 per vehicle). Some of it can be covered by car, although four-wheel-drive vehicles are necessary for the more obscure - and most interesting - routes. The best time to come is winter, when daytime temperatures stay around the mid-eighties. In the fiercely hot summer, it's best left to the lizards, but when the desert blooms , between March and May, scarlet ocotillo, orange poppies, white lilies, purple verbena and other wild flowers paint a memorable, and fragrant, picture. To find out more information, and begin your trip at a good jumping-off point, stop by the park visitors center , near park headquarters at 200 Palm Canyon Drive (daily 8am-5pm, weekends only during summer; tel 760/767-4205).

Historical reminders in the desert span Native American tribes, early white explorers and Gold Rush fortune-hunters. Approaching from the west, Hwy-78 descends to Scissors Crossing, the junction with Hwy-22, which follows the Butterfield Stage Route , the first regular line of communication between the East and the newly settled West, which began service in 1857. Further on, the old adobe rest stop of Vallecito (vy-ay-SEE-toe) Stage Station gives a good indication of the privations of early desert travel. To the south, around Imperial Valley in the least-visited portion of Anza-Borrego, there's a vivid and spectacular clash as gray rock rises from the edges of the red desert floor. Along Hwy-22, east of Borrego Springs, is a memorial to Peg Leg Smith, an infamous local spinner of yarns from the Gold Rush days who is celebrated by the Peg Leg Liars Contest on the first Saturday in April; anybody can get up before the judges and fib their hearts out.

The only substantial settlement in the desert is BORREGO SPRINGS , at the northern end of Hwy-S3 along Hwy-S22, which is a good base for the area's canyon walks, some with free but waterless campgrounds . Camping is also available at the Borrego Palm Canyon campground, near the Anza-Borrego park visitors center. From here, a 1.5-mile trail takes you to a small oasis with palms and a waterfall. Hotels in town are fairly pricey; only the Oasis at 366 W Palm Drive (tel 760/767-5409; $50-75) and Hacienda del Sol (tel 760/767-5442; $50-75), on Palm Canyon Drive, are even close to affordable.

Anza-Borrego Desert

• Anza-Borrego Desert

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