Los Angeles: Downtown

Buffet Palace 3014 Olympic Blvd tel 213/480-8949. Authentic Korean restaurant in the heart of Koreatown, good for spicy barbecued beef.

Clifton's Caféteria 648 S Broadway tel 213/627-1673. A cafeteria complete with redwood trees, waterfall and mini-chapel, and serving good, inexpensive American staples.

El Cholo 1121 S Western Ave tel 323/734-2773. One of LA's first big Mexican restaurants and still one of the best, despite the drunken frat-rats from USC.

La Bella Cucina 949 S Figueroa St tel 213/623-0014. Fabulous pizzas and homemade pastas, with the accent on northern Italian cuisine, and a predictably high price tag.

Langer's Deli 704 S Alvarado tel 213/483-8050. Over twenty types of hot pastrami sandwiches draw the crowds to this classic eatery, despite the grim surroundings.

Ocean Seafood 750 N Hill tel 213/687-3088. Cavernous and often crowded Chinese restaurant serving low-priced, excellent food - try the abalone, crab, shrimp or duck.

The Original Pantry 877 S Figueroa St tel 213/972-9279. Mayor Riordan owns this classic old diner serving huge pork chops and American breakfasts served 24hrs a day.

Pacific Dining Car 1310 W 6th St tel 213/483-6000. Starched linen and very expensive steaks in a former railroad carriage styled after the hushed tones of an English supper club. Good-value breakfasts available. Open until 2am.

Philippe's Original 1001 N Alameda St tel 213/628-3781. Since 1908, the home of delicious French dip sandwiches, stuffed with pork, beef and lamb; invented right here as well.

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