Crested Butte: The town and mountain

Despite the presence of a pretty and well-preserved Victorian downtown core, people come to Crested Butte only to head out again into the surrounding mountains where the skiing and mountain biking in particular are world-class.

In skiing and snowboarding circles the Butte is best known for its extreme terrain, with lifts serving out-of-the-way bowls and faces that would only be accessible by helicopter at other resorts. It's no surprise then that the resort hosts both the US extreme skiing and snowboarding championships. That said, there are plenty of long intermediate runs mixed in over the mountain's thousand skiable acres, keeping the slopes accessible to all. Fourteen chairlifts (adult day lift passes $55) link 86 runs, which are usually uncrowded thanks to the resort's isolated location. Cross-country, especially telemark, skiing attracts thousands, while snowmobiling ranks as a great way to rest your legs. For something a little different, try a horseback ride through the snow with Fantasy Ranch ($85; tel 970/349-5425).

In summer, mountain bikes all but outnumber cars around the town, especially during Fat Tire Week in July, one of the oldest festivals in the young sport and one that according to local legend evolved from a race over the rocky 21-mile Pearl Pass to Aspen on newspaper bicycles in the 1970s. You can still ride this route - 190 miles shorter than the road - but some of the most exciting trails are much nearer town and include the gorgeous 401 trail with wide open vistas, the Dyke Trail thickly wooded with aspens and the long, varied and occasionally challenging Deadman's Gulch. The visitors' information center can help out with a basic map and route description for main trails, and local bike shops like The Alpineer, 419 6th St (tel 970/349-5210, ), are well-equipped with route maps and rental bikes.

Crested Butte

• Crested Butte
• The town and mountain
• Arrival and information
• Eating and drinking

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