Still being discovered by the holidaying multitudes, the Fort Myers beaches on Estero Island , fifteen miles south of downtown, are appreciably different in character from the west coast's more commercialized beach strips, with a cheerful seaside mood. Accommodation is plentiful on and around Estero Boulevard - reached by San Carlos Boulevard, which runs the seven-mile length of the island. Most activity revolves around the short fishing pier and the Lynne Hall Memorial Park , at the island's north end.

Estero Island becomes increasingly residential as you press south, Estero Boulevard eventually swinging over a slender causeway onto the barely developed San Carlos Island . A few miles ahead, at the Lovers Key State Recreation Area (daily sunrise to sunset; $3.25 per carload, $1 for pedestrians and cyclists), a footpath picks a trail over a couple of mangrove-fringed islands and several mullet-filled creeks to Lovers Key , a secluded beach. If you don't fancy the walk, a free trolley will transport you between the park entrance and the beach.

The islands of Sanibel and Captiva are virtually impossible to visit unless you have a car and are reached only by crossing a causeway ($3 toll). However, if you have a spare day the islands offer a wildlife refuge, mangroves and shell-strewn beaches - for which the island is widely renowned. In contrast with the smooth beaches along the gulf side of Sanibel island, the opposite edge comprises shallow bays and creeks, and a vibrant wildlife habitat under the protection of the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge (daily except Fri sunrise-sunset; cars $5, cyclists and pedestrians $1; tel 941/472-1100). The main entrance and information center are just off the Sanibel-Captiva Road.

Fort Myers's beaches

• Fort Myers's beaches

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