With swamps, savannahs and springs dotted liberally about its half-million acres, the Apalachicola National Forest is the inland Panhandle at its natural best. Several roads enable you to drive through a good-sized chunk, with many undemanding spots for a rest and a snack. To see deeper into the forest you'll need to make an effort: exploring at length, following one of the hiking trails, canoeing on one of the rivers, or simply spending a night under the stars at one of the basic campgrounds. Driving through the forest on Hwy-65, or around it on Hwy-319, you'll eventually pass the large and forbidding Tate's Hell Swamp . This is a breeding ground for the deadly water moccasin snake, and though gung-ho locals sometimes venture in hoping to catch a few to sell to zoos, you're well advised to stay clear.

The main entrances to the forest are off Hwy-20 and Hwy-319; three minor roads, routes 267, 375 and 65, form cross-forest links between the two. Accommodation is limited to camping; apart from Silver Lake (nine miles west of Tallahassee; $4), all the campgrounds are free, with very basic facilities (no running water). For more information call the ranger stations at Apalachicola (tel 850/643-2282) or Wakulla (tel 850/926-3561).

Apalachicola National Forest

• Apalachicola National Forest

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