At ISLAMORADA , some five miles south of Tavernier on Upper Matecumbe Key, the Theater of the Sea , MM84.5 (daily 9.30am-4pm; $17.25; tel 305/664-2431), offers sea shows, glass-bottom boats, snorkel tours and swim-with-the-dolphin programs (9.30am, noon, 2pm; $125). There's good hiking at Long Key State Recreation Area , MM68, a 965-acre expanse of tropical foliage and mangroves that also has one of the best beaches on the Keys (daily 8am-dusk; $3.25 per car plus 50ยข per passenger; tel 305/664-4815), and excellent deep-sea fishing.

Good-value accommodation includes the prettily landscaped Chesapeake Bay Resort , MM83.5 (tel 305/664-4662; $75-100), with two pools, a lagoon and water sports; and the serene, oceanside Drop Anchor motel at MM85 (tel 305/664-4863 or 1-888/664-4863; $50-75). As for eating , Lazy Days , MM79.9 (tel 305/664-5256), does fabulous things with fresh fish and Uncle's , MM81 (tel 305/664-4959), offers good-value mainstream cuisine for around $20. But for a change from Keys cuisine (though they do make a delectable Key Lime Pie), try Manny and Isa's , MM81.6 (tel 305/664-5019), a simple Cuban diner where superb Spanish food comes with copious strong, sweet sangria.

Islamorada

• Islamorada

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