Ten miles out of Hana is the gorgeous
Oheo Gulch
- a far-flung outpost of Haleakala National Park (admission free), where waterfalls tumble down the hillside to oceanfront meadows. If you hike a mile or two in the hills, you'll soon escape the crowds and reach cool rock pools, ideal for swimming; most visitors stroll down to an attractive spot the tour operators persist in calling the
Seven Sacred Pools
- a groundless label discouraged by Hawaiians that in its time has been attached to other features along the way. If you're averse to going back the same way you came, in normal conditions (but
not
rain) it is possible to follow the road right around southern Maui, although it has several rocky and unpaved stretches that invalidate rental-car insurance. Eventually, after a thirty-mile climb up bleak lava fields, it rounds the corner to give spectacular views out to the island of
Kahoolawe
(a naval bombing range until 1990, which has now been returned for restoration to the Hawaiians). You're now back in upcountry Maui, and soon come to the
Tedeschi Winery
(daily 9am-5pm; free), Hawaii's only vineyard.
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