For the moment, major development stops beyond Princeville, mainly because the road then crosses seven successive one-lane bridges. The first is over the Hanalei River, where the valley stretching away inland is a National Wildlife Refuge. Here endangered Hawaiian ducks, coots and stilts are protected by the preservation of their major habitats - natural wetlands and taro ponds. As a result, this is a rare chance to see a Hawaiian landscape relatively unchanged since ancient times.

The small town of HANALEI , set around a magnificent bay, has some low-key apartments for rent, but otherwise little formal accommodation. Of local restaurants , the Tahiti Nui (tel 808/826-6277) is particularly nice, with authentic Tahitian decor, rattan screens and old prints; go for the simple steak or fish entrees ($16). In the Hanalei Center mall, the busy Hanalei Gourmet (tel 808/826-2524) is the ideal stop for breakfast or a sandwich lunch, and also has live music every night.

Gorgeous Lumahai Beach , at the western edge of Hanalei Bay, has starred in countless movies, among them South Pacific , but is too treacherous for swimming. All the roadside beaches from here on, however, are good for snorkeling. Just two miles from the start of the Na Pali coast, the Hanalei Colony Resort (tel 808/826-6235 or 1-800/628-3004, ; $160-200) is Kauai's most dramatic waterfront property, within a few feet of the pounding surf; its units all have two bedrooms. The road finally comes to an end at Kee Beach , perhaps the loveliest spot of all.

Hanalei

• Hanalei

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