Maui's other main resort area is south of Kahului, across the isthmus. The long strip of hotels, malls and condos begins at KIHEI , with the road heavily built up on both sides, but thins out beyond the manicured lawns of WAILEA , near some superb beaches. Paluea Beach is ideal for families, while Little Beach , reached by a trail from cactus-lined Makena (or Big) Beach , is famous for (illegal) nudism. Beyond that, the main road deterioriates to become a rough one-lane track with minimal visibility, and which peters out altogether just before La Pérouse Bay . Once a significant population center, the beach here is good for snorkeling, and dolphins regularly come to play with swimmers, though you're forbidden to encourage them.

Few of the accommodation options are geared toward budget travelers; Wailana Inn , 14 Wailana Place (tel 808/874-3131 or 1-800/399-3885, ; $75-100), is a good-value motel-style building, while Maui Vista , 2191 S Kihei Rd (tel 808/879-7966 or 1-800/535-008, ; $100-130), is a bit more luxurious. For food , the Pacific Café Maui , 1279 S Kihei Rd (tel 808/879-0069), offers some great Pacific Rim concoctions, while Kihei Caffe , 1945 S Kihei Rd (tel 808/878-2230), has smoothies and inexpensive snacks.

Kihei and Wailea

• Kihei and Wailea

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