The square at the heart of modern LAHAINA is all but filled by a magnificent banyan tree , its aerial roots pushing down into the earth to become sturdy additional trunks. Just in front, in the small harbor, the replica square-rigged Carthaginian houses a lackluster maritime museum (daily 10am-5pm; $4). The Pioneer Inn nearby is Lahaina's main social center, great for a convivial, if not quiet, beer.

Otherwise, a walk up Front Street and back down Wainee Street covers most of what Lahaina has to offer. While it does hold some appealing nineteenth-century buildings, the concentration of tourist shops and fast-food places is phenomenal. The view out to sea, toward the island of Lanai , is a welcome respite. If you have the time, consider taking a ferry there for the day; there's little to see, but the main beach, at Hulopoe Bay, is a delight. Expedition provides five sailings daily, from Lahaina Harbor ($50 round-trip; tel 808/661-3756).

Lahaina

• Lahaina
• Whale-hunting
• Food and nightlife
• Whale-watching

Hawaii cities


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