Until Robert Waller's The Bridges of Madison County changed everything, sleepy, rundown WINTERSET , 25 miles southwest of Des Moines, seemed a long way off the beaten track. Its one tourist attraction was the modest former home of the local pharmacist at 216 S Second St, run as a museum as a tribute to his son, Marion Robert Morrison (daily 10am-4.30pm; $2.50). Born in 1907, he grew up to become Hollywood hardman John Wayne. His first lead role was in 1930 but real stardom, as the Ringo Kid in John Ford's Stagecoach , didn't come for another nine years. Three decades later, Wayne claimed his only Oscar as Rooster Cogburn, the drunken one-eyed marshal in True Grit . Among the photos, personal belongings and mementos is a glowing personal endorsement of "the Duke" from his buddy Ronald Reagan, who shared his political views, if not perhaps his acting abilities.

These days Winterset's visitor center , on Courthouse Square in the heart of town (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 11am-4pm; tel 515/462-1185 or 1-800/298-6119, ), has become accustomed to handling inquiries from all over the world about the locations for Waller's tale, including hundreds of couples wanting to marry on the bridges themselves. If you don't want to go that far, you can drive out to view the covered bridges, or at least have a meal in the old-style Northside Café , a few doors along from the visitor center, where Clint was made to feel decidedly uncomfortable in the movie. You can also visit the late 1800s homestead that was used as Francesca Johnson's farm in the movie at 3271 130th St (May-Oct 10am-6pm or by appointment; $5; tel 515/981-5268). A good time to visit Winterset is the second full weekend of October for the Bridge Festival featuring local bands and artists. Accommodation possibilities nearby include the Village View Motel , Hwy-92 E (tel 515/462-1218 or 1-800/862-1218; $50-75), and A Step Away , 104 W Court St (tel 515/462-5956; $75-100), a snug little B&B. There is a small campground at the Winterset City Park on the east end of town (tel 515/462-3258; $8). Behind the CVB, at 222 N John Wayne Drive, is the computer store , which has free internet access.

Winterset

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