North of Ketchum and Sun Valley, Hwy-75 climbs through ever-larger mountains and forests to top out after twenty miles at Galena Summit , one of the most spectacular panoramic viewpoints in all the Rockies. Spreading out far below, the meadows of the Sawtooth Valley stretch northwards, bearing minimal traces of the long-abandoned gold-mining settlements. The simple road meanders beside the young Salmon River , whose headwaters rise in the forbidding icy peaks to the south; and the serrated ridge of the Sawtooth Mountains forms an impenetrable barrier along the western horizon.

Backpackers are guaranteed solitude in these high fastnesses, dotted with remote lakes - pick up details of primitive camping sites and hiking trails at the Sawtooth National Recreation Area headquarters (tel 208/726-7672 or 1-800/260-5970), eight miles out of Ketchum.

Beside Redfish Lake , just east of Hwy-75, sixty miles north of Sun Valley, the attractive and deliberately low-key Redfish Lake Lodge offers accommodation in motel rooms and cabins (June to early Oct; tel 208/774-3536; $50-130).

At tiny STANLEY , a few miles north, dirt roads radiate from the junction of Hwy-75 and Hwy-21, with assorted motels such as the large Mountain Village Lodge (tel 208/774-3661 or 1-800/843-5475; $75-100) with sixty comfortably furnished rooms and a natural hot springs spa, and the more rustic Valley Creek Motel (tel 208/774-3606; $75-100/$100-130). The Rod and Gun Club Saloon , on Ace of Diamonds Avenue, is a lively local bar that also serves decent pub grub. Out of season Stanley virtually closes up; in summer its main activity is organizing rafting trips (check in advance; weather conditions - such as heavy snowmelt - can make conditions too dangerous). Operators include The River Company (tel 208/774-2244).

Sawtooth National Recreation Area

• Sawtooth National Recreation Area

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