Chicago: Downtown

The Berghoff 17 W Adams St tel 312/427-3170. The beautifully preserved Chicago landmark, dating from 1893, offers plentiful Germanic specialties plus fish dishes and corned beef and cabbage. Try the draft or root beer. A bargain.

Billy Goat Tavern 430 N Michigan Ave, lower level tel 312/222-1525. This legendary journalists' haunt opens early and closes late, serving the 'cheezborgers' made famous by John Belushi's comedy skit. Very reasonable.

Everest One Financial Place, 440 S LaSalle St tel 312/663-8920. Take in the stunning vista from the 40th floor and tuck into chef Jean Joho's wild mushroom consommé and roasted Maine lobster. Very expensive; closed Sun, Mon.

Italian Village 71 W Monroe St tel 312/332-7005. Three Italian establishments flourish under one roof. The Village has traditional Italian-American food and a world-class wine cellar. The basement La Cantina serves chicken Vesuvio, a Chicago creation, among its reasonably priced dishes. The expensive Vivere (tel 312/332-4040) has an adventurous menu, a mesmerizing wine list and a large pre-theater crowd (so arrive after 8pm).

Lou Mitchell's 565 W Jackson Ave tel 312/939-3111. Near Union Station, Lou's has been around since 1923, serving terrific omelets, waffles and hash browns all day long. Try the pecan-laden cookies.

Marché 833 W Randolph St tel 312/226-8399. Creative French cuisine - try the porcini-crusted Chilean sea bass - is served in an eclectic atmosphere in the Market District. Entrees $16-28.

Prairie 500 S Dearborn St, in the Hyatt tel 312/663-1143. Modeled on a Frank Lloyd Wright interior, this place uses only fresh Midwestern ingredients in dishes such as sirloin of buffalo and brandied loaf of duck.

Printers Row 550 S Dearborn St tel 312/461-0780. Seafood and game are highlights among the captivating New American concoctions devised by owner/chef Michael Foley. Quite pricey.

Russian Tea Time 77 E Adams St tel 312/360-0000. This Midwestern nod to New York's Russian Tea Room offers a sampling of authentic fare from the former Soviet empire. Pricey, but lunch can be a bargain.

Sorriso 321 N Clark St tel 312/644-0283. The alfresco dining comes with a spectacular view of the Loop riverfront and skyline. The menu features Italian and American dishes including scungilli (conch) salad. The piano bar occasionally serves free pizza during the cocktail hour.

Trattoria No 10 10 N Dearborn St tel 312/984-1718. This charming surprise, in a series of underground rooms, serves up delicious warm bread (stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes), grilled sea scallops and risotto.

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