Chicago: Greektown and Little Italy

Costa's 340 S Halsted St tel 312/263-9700. At this casual Greek place, which is reasonably priced, try the Mussels Salonika, or the cheese-stuffed roasted peppers.

Gennaro's 1352 W Taylor St tel 312/243-1035. The speakeasy atmosphere is enhanced by the locked front door, opened after you're checked out through the peephole. Fine gnocchi .

Greek Islands 200 S Halsted St tel 312/782-9855. A large place, it has several rustic "taverna" nooks. The grilled sea bass and red snapper are fresh and flavorful.

Mia Francesca 1400 W Taylor St tel 312/829-2828. Here's the most subdued of the Francesca restaurant family. That said, it offers some of the best Italian in the city, period. Don't be surprised to find a crowd here all day.

Parthenon 314 S Halsted St tel 312/726-2407. One of the oldest places in Greektown: saganaki (fried cheese doused with Metaxa brandy and ignited) was invented here.

Pegasus 130 S Halsted St tel 312/226-3377. True hospitality and evocative wall murals add to the appeal of this popular establishment. Stuffed squid and pastitsio (macaroni, meat and cheese casserole) are recommended. The rooftop garden has a superb view of the Loop skyline.

Santorini 800 W Adams St tel 312/829-8820. The decor re-creates a Greek island village, and the food is beguiling, too; grilled octopus and lamb exohiko (wrapped in filo pastry and fried) are highlights.

Tufano's Vernon Park Tap 1073 W Vernon Park Place, near the United Center tel 312/733-3393. A neighborhood landmark for more than 60 years. Its recent face-lift has eroded some of the original charm, but the chalkboard specials, good service and moderate prices remain. The antipasto and homemade ravioli are standouts.

Tuscany 1014 W Taylor St tel 312/829-1990. The creative menu here includes wood-roasted chicken and terrific risottos. Service is very attentive, and there's a huge, bustling bar.

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