Chicago: Wicker Park

Café Absinthe 1954 W North Ave tel 773/278-4488. Fine French dining in a romantic, casual setting. One of the city's best.

Irazu 1865 N Milwaukee Ave tel 773/252-5687. Wonderful Costa Rican diner; great burritos plus a small selection of authentic main courses.

Smoke Daddy 1804 W Division St tel 773/772-6656. Arguably Chicago's best BBQ, with jazz and blues nightly, also offers vegetarian options.

Soul Kitchen 1576 N Milwaukee Ave tel 773/342-9742. At this loud joint, a youthful crowd munches on the likes of pecan-breaded catfish and fire-and-spice lamb.

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