Along Paris and Ironworks pikes , northeast of Lexington, in an idyllic Kentuckian landscape, sleek thoroughbred horses cavort in bluegrass meadows. Some farms are still staked out by miles of immaculate white-plank fences, though most now use the cheaper but much less attractive black creosote to protect the wood. You can watch the horses' early-morning workouts at Keeneland racetrack to the west (April-Oct daily dawn-10am; free; tel 859/254-3412 or 1-800/456-3412), and then eat a super-cheap breakfast at the adjacent Keeneland Kitchen . Tasteful dark-green grandstands emphasize the crisp white rails around the one-mile oval track. Until recently there was no public address system, which made for a unique atmosphere, with thousands of puzzled voices trying to work out which horse was which, breaking into cheers as they hurtled into the final furlong; even today, coverage is muted, in keeping with Keeneland tradition (racing for 3 weeks in April Tues-Sun 7.30pm; and 3 weeks in Oct Wed-Sun 1pm; call for reserved tickets; $3.50-25; tel 859/288-4299).

Tours of horse farms used to be very popular, but some owners have become reluctant to let the public get too close to the shy creatures. There are a handful of farms that allow visits; most are free, but you should tip the groom. One choice is Calumet Farm off Versailles Road (Mon & Wed 1.30pm, Fri 10.30am; free; tel 859/231-8272). Three Chimneys on Old Frankfort Pike is about fifteen minutes west of downtown and offers tours by appointment only (tel 859/873-7053). Alternatively, try the comprehensive Blue Grass Tours (March-Oct 9am & 1.30pm, Nov-Feb by appointment only; $25; tel 859/252-5744 or 1-800/755-6956, ), whose three-hour itinerary includes a stop at a private farm, a drive through another, and a visit to Keeneland racetrack and other horse-related areas. The Thoroughbred Center , 3380 Paris Pike (Mon-Fri tours 9am, 10.30am & 1pm; Sat 9am & 10.30am; tel 859/293-1853), allows you to watch trainers at work.

The enjoyable Kentucky Horse Park is a little further along at 4089 Ironworks Parkway (April-Oct daily 9am-5pm; rest of year Wed-Sun 9am-5pm; $10). Its museum traces the use of horses throughout history, from Roman chariot races through cavalry regiments, commercial haulage and modern sports. The 1032-acre park also features live specimens of over thirty different breeds and a working farm, and offers guided horseback rides ($14). Experienced equestrians can ride unsupervised or inexperienced with a guide at Whispering Woods, in Georgetown ($20 per hour; tel 502/570-9663 for reservations).

Lexington's horses

• Lexington's horses

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