Cajun Country: Cajun music

It's easy to "pass a good time" in Cajun country, especially if you're here at the weekend, when the fais-do-dos are traditionally held. Though things are quieter during the week, you'll still be able to enjoy authentic local music at many of the restaurants. Cajun music is a jangling, infectious melange of nasal vocals backed by jumping accordion, violin and triangle, fueled by traces of country, swing, jazz and blues. Zydeco is similar, but more blues-based, and more often played by black musicians. The patois heard in both bears only a passing resemblance to the language spoken in France. Music is never performed without space for dancing; everyone from the smallest child to most aged grandparent can join in. As well as the popular restaurants Mulate's, Prejean's and Randol's , venues include simple dance halls, record stores, river landings and the streets themselves. Check the comprehensive music listings in the free Times of Acadiana or simply look out for signs saying "French dance here tonight."

Bourque's Club on Leo Lane, Lewisburg, 10 miles south of Opelousas tel 337/948-9904. One of the few remaining old-style dance halls, featuring live music Fri & Sat 8pm-midnight, and jam sessions (with free dinner) Wed 7-10pm.

El Sid O's Zydeco Club 803 Martin Luther King Drive, Lafayette tel 337/235-0647. Dancing Fri & Sat, with great zydeco and blues bands. They also serve food.

Fred's Lounge 420 6th St, Mamou tel 337/468-5411. Extremely welcoming home of the locally famed radio show "Live from Fred's Lounge" (KVPI 1050 AM), with music, dancing and lots of drinking. Sat only, 9.15am until well into the afternoon.

Prairie Acadian Cultural Center 250 W Park Ave, Eunice tel 337/457-8499. Splendid cultural center that hosts local musicians, storytelling and cookery demonstrations on Sat afternoons from 3pm.

Rendezvous des Cajuns Liberty Center for Performing Arts, S 2nd St and Park Ave, Eunice tel 337/457-7389. Live Cajun/zydeco radio and TV show, mostly in French, every Sat 6-7.30pm. Family-oriented and hugely popular. Cover $5.

Richard's Hwy-190, eight miles west of Opelousas in Lawtell tel 337/543-6596. Incredibly congenial place for zydeco bands; regular Sat evening dances plus occasional events on Fri & Sun.

Savoy Music Center Accordion Factory 4413 Hwy-190, three miles west of Eunice tel 337/457-9563. Cajun record shop, where accordions are made in the back room. The store is open Tues-Fri 9am-5pm, but you should aim to be here for the joyous jam sessions on Sat 9am-noon.

Slim's Y-Ki-Ki Washington Rd, Hwy-182, Opelousas tel 337/942-6242. Famed shack-style venue for zydeco music and dancing. Fri & Sat only.

Whiskey River Whiskey River Landing, Henderson tel 337/228-8567. Live Cajun music venue doubling as the starting point for a popular swamp tour. Sun 4-8pm.

Cajun Country

Cajun Country
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