They say a Cajun cooks every part of a pig but its squeal, and it's true that Cajun dishes are packed with a jumble of flavors, textures and, well, anything that's good and fresh. Though it bears resemblances to the Creole cuisine you'll find in New Orleans - lots of seafood, rice, rich tomatoey sauces and gumbos - this is rustic food, often spicy, and yes, pork features highly on many menus. It's very difficult to eat badly around here, and prices are generally low. At lunchtime, takeout boudin (spicy sausage) goes down a treat, as do finger-licking specialties like rich pork cracklin' and salty hogshead cheese. Often, however, eating in Cajun country is inseparable from dancing and music ; evening - or afternoon, or morning - entertainment revolves around restaurants that double as dancehalls. Even if you don't feel like two-stepping yourself, it's great fun to watch all the old-timers and young sweethearts whirling around the room while you gorge on a delicious dinner of spicy seafood with a frosty beer.

Bayou Boudin and Cracklin ' 100 Mills Ave, Hwy-94, Breaux Bridge, exit 109 from I-10 tel 337/332-6158. Nineteenth-century Cajun-country cottage on Bayou Teche - the crawfish capital of the world - selling takeout seafood boudin, hogshead cheese-smothered chicken and crawfish balls, all prepared on the spot from traditional recipes. Tues-Sun 7am-6pm.

Cafe des Amis 140 E Bridge St, Breaux Bridge tel 337/332-5273. Cozy, atmospheric country store serving tasty Cajun-Creole food. The traditional breakfasts are highly recommended. Wed-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat 7.30am-10pm, Sun 7.30am-3pm.

Cafe Vermilionville 1304 W Pinhook Rd, Lafayette tel 337/237-0100. Superlative French-Cajun restaurant in an elegant 1818 building, specializing in fresh seafood served in creative sauces; try the fantastic turtle soup. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm & 5.30-10pm, Sat 5.30-10pm.

Dean-O's 305 Bertrand Drive, Lafayette tel 337/233-5446. Unprepossessing downtown pizza joint, a local institution for its delicious pies topped with succulent shrimp and seafood. Mon-Thurs 11am-11pm, Fri & Sat 11am-12am, Sun 4-11pm.

Mulate's 325 Mills Ave, Breaux Bridge tel 337/332-4648 and 1-800/422-2586. Touristy, fun Cajun restaurant, where you'll find seafood, catfish and gumbo for less than $15; the Cajun music is thrown in for free. Dancing nightly, and daily at noon on weekends. Fifteen minutes from Lafayette on Hwy-94, a mile off I-10. Daily 11am-10pm.

Poupart's 1902 W Pinhook Rd, Lafayette tel 337/232-7921. Superb French bakery serving good coffee, quiches, continental breakfasts and sandwiches. Try the exquisite pastries and crawfish pies. Tues-Sat 7am-6.30pm, Sun 7am-4pm.

Prejean's 3480 I-49 N, Lafayette tel 337/896-3247. Fabulous, reasonably priced Cajun food in lively dance-hall surroundings. The menu is huge, but you can't go wrong with the fish or seafood - and don't miss the stuffed oysters. Mon-Thurs & Sun 6am-10pm, Fri & Sat 11am-11pm; live music begins at 7pm.

Randol's 2320 Kaliste Saloom Rd, Lafayette tel 337/981-7080. Locally famed dancehall serving fresh steamed seafood dinners (boiled softshell crabs are a specialty). The nightly fais-do-dos are occasionally televised. Sun-Thurs 5-10pm, Fri & Sat 5-11pm.

Richard's Seafood Patio 1516 S Henry St, Abbeville, 20 miles south of Lafayette tel 337/893-1693. Top-notch seafood focusing on regional standards like boiled crabs, gumbo and grilled shrimp. Mon-Sat 5pm until the last person leaves.

Lafayette

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