New Orleans: French Quarter bars
Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop 941 Bourbon St tel 504/523-0066. Ancient, tumbledown bar frequented by artists and writers, and a few lively tourists. A front for Lafitte's plottings, it's practically unchanged since the 1700s, with beamed ceilings and a blackened brick fireplace. In the evenings, a gloriously cheesy piano player pounds out cocktail-lounge standards - there's a patio for those who want a quieter time.Molly's at the Market 1107 Decatur St tel 504/525-5169. Once famed for being a haunt of politicos and media stars, Molly's Irish bar is quintessential French Quarter, pulling a happy crowd of locals, rowdy tourists, service industry workers and grungy street punks. There's Guinness on tap, a burger kitchen at the back, and a photo booth in the corner.
The Napoleon House 500 Chartres St tel 504/524-9752. Ravishing old bar - all crumbling walls, shadowy corners and flickering candles - exuding a classic, relaxed New Orleans elegance. On a warm night the courtyard is one of the best places on earth to be. The building was the home of Mayor Girod, who schemed with Jean Lafitte to rescue Napoleon from exile.
Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave tel 504/523-0120. Unpretentious drinking hole haunted by a noisy mix of Quarterites, Faubourg denzens and in-the-know tourists who put the world to rights around the large wooden bar or at the small tables. Great burgers, too.
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