New Orleans: Bars elsewhere in the city

Columns Hotel 3811 St Charles Ave tel 504/899-9308. Gorgeous hotel bar seeping faded Southern grandeur; on warm evenings, make for the columned veranda, which overlooks the streetcar line. It's also a local favorite for occasional live jazz, when there's a small cover.

R-Bar 1431 Royal St tel 504/948-7499. Bohemian Faubourg Marigny bar with funky thrift-store decor and a pool table played by some of the coolest sharks in town. It's popular with a youngish set, which includes visitors staying at the guesthouse upstairs.

Sazerac Bar   Fairmont Hotel , 123 Baronne St tel 504/529-4733. Historic, very classy Art Deco bar in a grand old CBD hotel. Serving champagne, fine wines, tip-top cocktails and desserts, it attracts a well-dressed uptown and business traveler clientele.

Snake and Jake's Christmas Club Lounge 7612 Oak St tel 504/861-2802. Dilapidated uptown bar, with perennial Yuletide decorations fading in the gloom. Nothing much happens before 2am, when it fills up with a jubilant local crowd of musicians, journalists and students. The jukebox is superb.

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