As you head northward out of Boston, you pass through a succession of rich little ports that have been all but swallowed up by the suburbs. The most obvious day-trip from Boston is the half-hour ride out to Salem . Nearby Marblehead , on the other hand, gave us the US Navy : George Washington's first five vessels were built there. If you have the time, the atmospheric old fishing ports of Gloucester and Rockport , further out on Cape Ann , have strong literary and artistic links: T.S. Eliot used to come here for his family vacations, and the Dry Salvages of the third of his Four Quartets are a group of offshore rocks. They're also the best places on the east coast for whale-watching trips: Cape Ann Whale Watch (tel 978/283-5110 or 1-800/877-5110, ) offers three- to four-hour trips for $28 between April and October.

North Shore

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Salem and Marblehead

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