Sooner or later, if you're in Baltimore you're bound to be drawn down to the Inner Harbor , a success story of urban revitalization. The rotting wharves and derelict warehouses that stood here through the 1970s have been replaced by the sparkling steel-and-glass Harborplace shopping mall, crammed with thriving restaurants like the Cheesecake Factory, Wayne's BBQ , and seafood specialist Phillips , as well as sports memorabilia and bric-a-brac shops that swarm day and night with tourists and locals. It is quite an enjoyable place, with the waterfront promenade enlivened by busking guitar players and the occasional fire-eating juggler. Sweeping views of the entire city and beyond can be admired from the observation deck of Baltimore's own World Trade Center on the north pier (Mon-Wed 10am-5pm, Thurs-Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun 11am-5.30pm; $4).

Nothing in the Inner Harbor dates from before its rebuilding, but to lend an air of authenticity, remnants from the city's proud maritime past have been assembled here, including the graceful USS Constellation (daily Oct 15-April 30 10am-5pm; $6.50), an eighteenth-century, Baltimore-built frigate that was the first ship in the US Navy, and which has just undergone a $9 million renovation. Another collection of ships - a Coast Guard cutter that survived Pearl Harbor, a Chesapeake Bay lightship and a World War II submarine - and a charming lighthouse make up the Baltimore Maritime Museum (Mon-Thurs 10am-5.30pm, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; $6.50) on the next pier.

In the southwest corner of the harbor at 601 Light St, the spanking new glass, steel and concrete Maryland Science Center (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-6pm; $14, IMAX show $7, combination ticket $18; ) is especially fun for kids; it features imaginative and interactive displays on themes ranging from dinosaurs to space travel. Keep in mind that frequent special exhibits can extend visiting hours, as well as raise prices.

Inner Harbor

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National Aquarium

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