ROCKLAND , where US-1 reaches Penobscot Bay roughly halfway between Portland and Bar Harbor, is the world's largest distributor of lobsters , and holds the Maine Lobster Festival over the first weekend of August (for more info call 1-800/LOB-CLAW, ). One of the best of its traditional lobster pounds is Miller's (tel 207/594-7406), on the shore of Wheeler's Bay in an isolated cove at Spruce Head on Hwy-73, open from 10am until 7pm in season, for succulent lobsters and steamers. The Brown Bag bakery, 606 Main St (tel 207/596-6372), has low-fat breads and lunches. The White Gates , four miles north on US-1 (tel 207/594-4625; $50-75), is the cleanest budget motel in the area. South of Rockland, the pretty St George Peninsula , in particular the village of Tenants Harbor, inspired writer Sarah Orne Jewett's classic Maine novel Country of the Pointed Firs . Boats leave from the hamlet of Port Clyde at the tip of the peninsula, fourteen miles south of Rockland, to tiny Monhegan Island , eleven miles off the coast and with a year-round population of less than a hundred. Lobsters are the main business on this rocky outcrop, though the stunning cliffs and isolated coves have long attracted artists - including Edward Hopper. Fifteen miles of hiking trails twist through the wilderness and past a magnificent 1824 lighthouse. Accommodation such as the Island Inn (May to mid-Oct; tel 207/596-0371, ; $75-200) is pricey, though there are self-catering units available: try The Monhegan House (tel 207/594-7983 or 1-800/599-7983, ; $50-75). However, it makes a great day-trip away from the tourist bustle of the mainland, aboard the Laura B (May-Oct daily; Nov-April Mon, Wed & Fri; three sailings a day in summer, fewer at other times; $27 round-trip; tel 207/372-8848, ). Nature cruises and lighthouse tours are also available for $24 July through August.

Four to six ferries run daily throughout the year from Rockland to the island of Vinalhaven , which has one or two inns (but no campgrounds), a few shops, a museum and an impressive lighthouse; slightly fewer serve neighboring North Haven . Fares are $9 round-trip to either destination. The boats do carry cars and bikes, though what attracts many visitors are the hiking opportunities. The Maine State Ferry Service at 517A Main St (tel 207/tel 596-2202 or 1-800/491-4883, ) has full schedules; they also operate several daily services from Lincolnville , six miles north of Camden - where there's also a small but pleasant beach - across to Islesboro .

Rockland and Vinalhaven

• Rockland and Vinalhaven

Maine cities


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