Thirty miles southwest of Glacier, and fifteen miles north of Flathead Lake, largish KALISPELL corners a significant portion of the tourist trade en route to Glacier. There's not much to do here, but in high season it may be the closest place to the park you'll get to stay.

For excellent food , try the Chinese dishes at the Alley Connection in the Kalispell Hotel ; the game and seafood dishes at Café Max , 121 Main St (tel 406/755-7687); or Montana Coffee Traders , 328 W Center St (tel 406/756-2326). If you're looking for a lively night out, the Hellroaring Saloon & Eatery on Big Mountain above Whitefish is the place to be - especially during ski season.

Kalispell

• Kalispell

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