The resort and lumber village of WHITEFISH , seventeen miles north of Kalispell, has a lively vibe summer or winter. Hacked out of thick forests, it lies on the south shore of beautiful Whitefish Lake in the shade of the Big Mountain Ski Resort (lift tickets $44; tel 406/862-1900). The narrow roads round the lake and foothills deserve to be cycled - bikes can be rented from Glacier Cyclery, 336 E 2nd St (tel 406/862-6446) - and the surrounding mountains provide great outdoor action year-round. Big Mountain is the second biggest ski hill in the state, and is also open in summer for great lift-accessed hiking and mountain biking ($12).

Amtrak drops off downtown on Central Avenue, en route to and from Glacier National Park, and there's a useful tourist information counter in the depot building; while Intermountain buses call in at Your C-stop gas station at 403 Second St on their way between Missoula and Glacier during summer.

For dining, the Great Northern Bar and Grill , 27 Central Ave (tel 406/862-2816), is a busy, friendly spot with pool tables, deli meals and live music, while Truby's at 115 Central Ave (tel 406/862-4979) is an excellent choice for pizza and pasta. Whitefish Times , 344 Central Ave (tel 406/862-2444), is a great place to relax with coffee, cakes and a wide range of complimentary magazines and newspapers.

Whitefish

• Whitefish

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