BEAUFORT , about 150 miles southeast of Raleigh, is probably the nicest of North Carolina's coastal towns: a relaxing place to hang out and drink cold beer, or just sit around on the waterfront, which heats up at night. The Maritime Museum has good displays on local ecology and shipping history (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 2-5pm; free; tel 252/728-7317). In the restored area on Turner Street, off the waterfront, you'll find handsome old houses , an apothecary and the city jail. Across from the museum, you can take a more active excursion with The Watercraft Center (tel 252/728-6330), who have guided kayak eco-tours of the surrounding waterways including the Shackleford Banks (tours start at $40, kayak rentals $10 per hour, $30 per half-day, $55 per day). The main house serves as the town welcome center (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; tel 252/728-5225 or 1-800/575-SITE, ).

Among the many historic B&Bs in the shady residential streets off Turner Street, Langdon House , 135 Craven St (tel 252/728-5499, fax 252/728-1717, ; $130-160), is friendly and relaxed, as is the Cedars Inn , 305 Front St (tel 252/728-7036, ; $100-130summer). The Inlet Inn , on the waterfront at 601 Front St (tel 252/728-3600, fax 252/728-5833, ; $100-130 summer), has huge hotel rooms, and also offers a continental breakfast served in your room. Rates everywhere increase considerably in summer. Morehead City , a couple of miles down the coast, and the Bogue Bank resorts boast plenty of motels .

As for eating and nightlife , Beaufort's waterfront is vibrant at night, milling with yachties and vacationers drinking, listening to live music and simply strolling. There are a number of decent bar-restaurants on the wooden boardwalk right on the water, but for exquisite - if pricey - New American cuisine, head for the stylish Front Street Grill , set back from the waterfront at 300 Front St (tel 252/728-3118). The notable Beaufort Grocery Co , 117 Queen St (tel 252/728-3899), prides itself on inventive dishes made from superbly fresh ingredients.

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Beaufort

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