The Sacramento, Capitan and Jicarillamountains , which rise at the western edge of the Llano Estacado, 85 miles northwest of Carlsbad, form a rare respite from the scrubby flatness. Spread out along winding roads that cut through dense groves of pine, fir and aspen, the main town here, RUIDOSO - named for the Ruidoso ("Noisy") River - is the fastest-growing resort in the Southwest.

The Ruidoso Downs racetrack, just east of town, plays host to a 77-day racing season that culminates on Labor Day with the All-American Futurity , one of the world's richest horse races. Alongside, the Hubbard Museum of the American West (daily 10am-5pm; $6) holds displays on the natural and human-related history of horses, with a selection of memorabilia from around the world such as horse-drawn Russian sleighs, English road coaches and Wild West stagecoaches.

In winter, attention turns to the 12,000ft slopes of Ski Apache (tel 505/336-4565, ), a downhill ski area northwest of town where lift tickets cost around $43 per day. Though operated by the Mescalero Apache, it's not on tribal land - they bought it as a going concern.

Brochures from Ruidoso's visitor center , 720 Sudderth Ave (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1-4pm; tel 505/257-7395 or 1-800/253-2255, ), list dozens of motels , such as the inexpensive Apache , 344 Sudderth Ave (tel 505/257-2986 or 1-800/426-0616; $35-50), but supply still fails to meet demand on big race days. The real local showpiece, however, is the glitzy Inn of the Mountain Gods (tel 505/464-5141 or 1-800/545-9011, ; $130-160), located three miles southwest of town on Carrizo Canyon Road. Also owned and run by the Mescalero Apache, the resort offers ski packages, casino gambling, golf, fishing, tennis and horseback riding, plus the excellent Dan Li Ka   restaurant .

Ruidoso

• Ruidoso

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