3801 Las Vegas Blvd S, .

On its opening day in 1957, the Tropicana was not literally alone in the desert - the now-vanished Hacienda had gone up nearby the previous year - but it stood a mile removed from the body of the Strip, and considered itself as a class apart. Bankrolled by the New Orleans Mafia, the "Tiffany of the Strip" was aimed squarely at high-rollers, and its flamboyant paradise-island trimmings epitomized Las Vegas luxury. Since Excalibur came along in 1990, however, the crossroads of Tropicana Avenue and Las Vegas Boulevard has become one of the Strip's two principal intersections, rivaled only by the spot where Caesars Palace and Bellagio face off across Flamingo Road. These days, the Tropicana palls in comparison to its three mighty neighbors. Even so, it continues to do well, thanks in large part to refugees from Excalibur and the MGM Grand who cross the pedestrian bridges over the Strip either to find a more traditional place to gamble, or simply to escape the kids.

Though the "tropical" theme of the "Island of Las Vegas" is pretty vague, and not based on any specific location, that didn't stop the Tropicana from trying to sue the Mirage for allegedly copying the idea. Appropriately enough, its current facade suspiciously resembles the Caribbean village at another Mirage property, Treasure Island , minus the pirates but plus false storefronts in pastel colors. The corresponding shops can be found within, just not behind the relevant "doors."

The interior of the Tropicana is a muddled maze that offers scant reward to those who try to penetrate it. It owes the "Tiffany" nickname to the ornate domed ceiling of stained glass that hangs above its central gaming tables. The ceiling is modeled on that of a San Francisco bank destroyed in the 1906 earthquake; its impact, however, is diminished by the fact that it only covers a small proportion of the total room space, which is otherwise so low-ceilinged as to make it almost unnoticeable.


In terms of traffic volume, the intersection of Las Vegas Boulevard and Tropicana Avenue is said to be the busiest in America.


Devotees of Las Vegas history can spend a happy half-hour browsing through the Casino Legends Hall of Fame , near the Promotions Center on the first floor (daily 7am-9pm; $4, or free with coupons handed out at main entrance). A bit too much space is given over to a collection of chips from every casino that's ever existed - many are for sale, priced from $4 to $600 - but when the focus shifts to the personalities of the past, things become more interesting. The entertainment section kicks off with Sophie Tucker, who starred at the Last Frontier in 1944, runs through Frank Sinatra and Liberace, and includes a bevy of showgirls from the Tropicana 's own long-running Folies Bergeres . If it's Elvis you're after, head for the movies section, where Viva Las Vegas is one of four classic flicks on display. Some spectacular footage of planned casino implosions also runs constantly, along with strangely tasteless film clips of the city's most disastrous fires. The "Bad Guys" section lingers lovingly on the skeletons in Las Vegas's closet, describing Bugsy Siegel as more of a "colorful uncle" than a founding father. The Tropicana 's tribulations are not ignored - it's widely acknowledged as having remained under Mob domination until 1979, when it was taken over by Ramada - as it moves to the surprisingly downbeat conclusion that "today Las Vegas's casinos are relatively Mob-free."

Where the Tropicana really does come up trumps is with its swimming pool , which is among the best in Las Vegas. Covering five landscaped acres, it's more of a waterpark really, surrounded by lush gardens and complete with hot tubs, fish-filled lagoons, a swim-up bar, and an outdoor wedding chapel.

Tropicana

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