Lexington Avenue begins its long journey north at Gramercy Park: if you're heading uptown on the East Side from here, you'll pass the lumbering 69th Regiment Armory at 25th Street, the site of the celebrated Armory Show of 1913, which brought modern art to New York. It is now a venue for antiques shows and art fairs. Between 27th and 30th streets, one of Manhattan's most condensed ethnic enclaves, Little India , aligns Lexington. Blink, and you might miss this altogether: most of New York's 180,000 Indians live in Queens, yet there's still a sizeable handful of restaurants and fast-food places - slightly outnumbered by those down on E 6th Street - and a pocket of spice shops and fabric stores.

North of Madison Square

• North of Madison Square

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