125th Street between Broadway and Fifth Avenue is the working center of Harlem and serves as its main commercial and retail drag. The #2 and #3 trains let you out here at 125th Street and Lenox Avenue, and the Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. State Office Building on the corner of Seventh Avenue provides a looming concrete landmark. Walking west along 125th, you'll encounter the Studio Museum in Harlem , at no. 144 (Wed-Thurs noon-6pm, Fri noon-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; $5, students and seniors $3, under 12 $1; tel 212/864-4500, www.studiomuseuminharlem.org ), an exhibition space dedicated to contemporary African-American painting, photography and sculpture. The permanent collection is displayed on a rotating basis and includes works by Harlem Renaissance-era photographer James Van Der Zee, and paintings and sculptures by postwar artists.

Just west is the Apollo Theatre at no. 253, which, though not much to look at from the outside, was, from the 1930s to the 1970s, the center of black entertainment in New York City and northeastern America. Almost all the great figures of jazz and blues played here along with singers, comedians and dancers. Past winners of its renowned Amateur Night have included Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, The Jackson Five, Sarah Vaughan, Marvin Gaye and James Brown.

The Apollo offers daily 45-minute tours (call 212/531-5337) .


125th Street

• 125th Street

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