New York City: Upper West Side and Morningside Heights

Café Lalo 201 W 83rd St (between Amsterdam and Broadway) tel 212/496-6031.
The spirit of Paris, complete with cramped tables and inconsistent service. Try the "shirred" eggs (made fluffy with a cappuccino machine) with all sorts of herbs and add-ins, or the wonderful Belgian waffles. Great desserts.

Café Mozart 154 W 70th St (between Central Park W and Columbus Ave) tel 212/595-9797.
This faded old Viennese coffeehouse serves rich tortes and apple strudel.

Caffè la Fortuna 69 W 71st St (between Central Park W and Columbus Ave) tel 212/724-5846.
The atmosphere is dark, comfy and inviting. You can sip a coffee all day long in the shade of their peaceful garden, and their Italian pastries are heavenly.

Edgar's Café 255 W 84th St (between West End Ave and Broadway) tel 212/496-6126.
A pleasant coffeehouse with good (though expensive) desserts and light snacks, great hot cider in the winter, and well-brewed coffees and teas all the time.

Gray's Papaya 2090 Broadway (at W 72nd St) tel 212/799-0243.
Order two all-beef franks and a papaya juice for a true New York experience. No ambience, no seats, just good cheap grub.

Hungarian Pastry Shop 1030 Amsterdam Ave (between 110th and 111th sts) tel 212/866-4230.
This simple, no-frills coffeehouse is a favorite with Columbia University students and faculty alike. You sip your espresso and read all day if you like; the only problem is choosing amongst the pastries, cookies and cakes, all made on the premises.

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