New York City: Union Square

The area around Union Square , known variously as the Flatiron district and Park Avenue South, has experienced an increase in fancyish spots - though whether that will remain in the wake of the dot-com fall is hard to say (NY's Silicon Alley is/was right along here).

AMERICAN AND CONTINENTAL

Alva 36 E 22nd St (between Broadway and Park Ave S) tel 212/228-4399.
Mirrors and photos of Thomas Alva Edison cover the walls in this eclectic continental restaurant. Specialties include grilled duck, double garlic roast chicken and soft-shell crabs. It's expensive, but the weekday pre-theater prix-fixe dinner (served 5.30-7pm; three courses and a glass of wine for about $30) is good value.

Union Square Café 21 E 16th St (between 5th Ave and Union Square W) tel 212/243-4020.
Choice California-style dining with a classy but comfortable downtown atmosphere. No one does salmon like they do. Not at all cheap - prices average $100 for two - but the creative menu is a real treat. Don't miss it if you have the bucks.

FRENCH AND BELGIAN

L'Express 249 Park Ave S (at 20th St) tel 212/254-5858.
A good, airy bistro with the usual food at somewhat reasonable prices, but with two important points of distinction: the waiters are actually friendly, and it's open 24 hours - by far the classiest all-night place in the neighborhood.

Steak Frites 9 E 16th St (between Union Square W and 5th Ave) tel 212/463-7101.
With its classic European feel, Steak Frites offers an upscale ambience as well as good service. As the name suggests, great steak and frites, for around $25.

GERMAN

Rolf's 281 3rd Ave (at 22nd St) tel 212/473-8718.
A nice, dark, chintz-decorated Old World feeling dominates this East Side institution. Schnitzel and sauerbraten are always good but somehow taste better at the generous bar buffet, commencing around 5pm all through the week.

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