New York City: Midtown East

Catering mostly to lunchtime office-going crowds that swarm the sidewalks on weekdays, Midtown East overflows with restaurants, most of them on the pricey side. You probably won't want to make it the focal point of too many culinary excursions but, that said, there are a few timeworn favorites in the neighborhood.

AMERICAN AND CONTINENTAL

Four Seasons 99 E 52nd St (between Park and Lexington aves) tel 212/754-9494.
Housed in Mies van der Rohe's Seagram Building, this is one of the city's most noted restaurants, not least for the decor, which includes murals by Picasso, sculptures by Richard Lippold and interior design by Philip Johnson. The food isn't at all bad either, and there's a relatively inexpensive pre-theater menu - $55 - if you want to try it. Somewhat stuffier than the other top restaurants.

Lipstick Café 885 3rd Ave (at 54th St) tel 212/486-8664.
Unlike most restaurants in the neighborhood, this one serves up delectable lunchtime food at affordable prices. It features tasty homemade soups, salads and delicious baked goods. Closed weekends.

Oyster Bar Lower level, Grand Central Terminal (at 42nd St and Park Ave) tel 212/490-6650.
Atmospheric turn-of-the-nineteenth-century place located down in the vaulted dungeons of Grand Central station, where midtown execs and others break for lunch. The oyster appetizers are particularly good, while seafood entrees go for a minimum of $25 per dish. If you're hard up, just saddle up to the bar for a bowl of excellent clam chowder, or great creamy bowls of pan-roasted oysters or clams.

Rosen's Delicatessen 23 E 51st St (between 5th and Madison aves) tel 212/541-8320.
Enormous Art Deco restaurant, renowned for its pastrami and corned beef, and handily situated for those suffering from midtown shopping fatigue. Good breakfasts too.

Smith and Wollensky 797 3rd Ave (at 49th St) tel 212/753-1530.
Clubby atmosphere in a grand setting, where waiters - many of whom have worked here for twenty years or more - serve you the primest cuts of beef imaginable. Quite pricey - you'll pay at least $33 a steak - but worth the splurge. Go basic with the sides and wines.

ASIAN

Hatsuhana 17 E 48th St (between 5th and Madison aves) tel 212/355-3345; 237 Park Ave (at 46th St) tel 212/661-3400.
Every sushi lover's favorite sushi restaurant now has two branches. Not at all cheap, so try to get there for the prix-fixe lunch.

FRENCH

Lutèce 249 E 50th St (between 2nd and 3rd aves) tel 212/752-2225.
Still rated one of the best restaurants in the country, and a favorite of many well-to-do New Yorkers. The classic French food is top-notch, the service elegant and understated. What's surprising is how low-key and completely unpretentious it is, though you do need big bucks and reservations in advance. Worth every penny.

ITALIAN

Luna Piena 243 E 53rd St (between 2nd and 3rd aves) tel 212/308-8882.
One of the better local Italians in a neighborhood of many mediocre restaurants. The food is good, the service is friendly, and there's a nice enclosed garden for warm summer evenings.

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