Historic SAG HARBOR , in its heyday a harbor second only to that of New York, was designated first Port of Entry to the New Country by George Washington; the Old Custom House (May-June, Sept-Oct Sat & Sun 10am-5pm; July-Aug Tues-Sun 10am-5pm; $3; tel 631/692-4664) dates from this era. The Whaling Museum on Main Street (mid-May to Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; $3; tel 631/725-0770) commemorates the town's brief whaling days with guns and scrimshaw. Nearby the Whaler's Presbyterian Church is crenellated with jutting rows of whale blubber spades, and beautiful memorials in Oakland Cemetery commemorate young whalers.

In summer, the windmill where John Steinbeck once lived serves as a visitor center (June-Sept daily 10am-5pm, Fri-Sat late night until 8pm; rest of year Sat & Sun only 10am-5pm; tel 631/725-0011, ). You can get a nice room at the Baron's Cove Inn at 31 W Water St (tel 631/725-2100; $100-130), but at the well-heeled American Hotel at 25 Main St (tel 631/725-3535; $160-200) you can also get a splendid French meal and a good cigar from the hotel's humidor. There are several good, less expensive restaurants along Main Street, such as the superb sushi bar Sen at no. 23 (tel 631/725-1774). For nightlife , the Boom Bistro , right across from Baron's Cove , is the club of the moment and wildly popular.

Sag Harbor

• Sag Harbor

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