West from Kingston, Hwy-28 meanders into the Catskills, looping past the lovely Ashokan Reservoir where Hwy-375 branches off to WOODSTOCK . The village, carved out of the lush deciduous woodlands and cut by fast-rushing creeks, was not actually the venue of the famed psychedelic picnic of August 1969. That was some sixty miles southwest in Bethel, where a monument at Herd and West Shore roads marks the site on the farm owned by Max Yasgur where the first festival was held. However, Woodstock has enjoyed a bohemian reputation since the foundation in 1902 of the Byrdcliffe Arts Colony (which runs summer residency courses; tel 845/679-2079, ), and during the 1960s it was a favorite stomping ground for the likes of Dylan, Hendrix and Van Morrison. It still bears signs of its hippie past: shops sell crystals and tie-dyed T-shirts and crystals, and there's even the odd commune out in the woods, but in the cafés you're just as likely to bump into a successful Manhattanite who owns a second home here as you would a long-haired beatnik-type. Woodstock's galleries and craft shops command a regional reputation and the village is also a hub for the performing arts: the Maverick Concert series (late June-Aug; around $15 per concert; tel 845/679-8217) has played host to some of the world's finest chamber musicians since 1916. Just west of Woodstock in the small town of Mount Tremper, the Kaatskill Kaleidoscope claims to be the world's largest, created by a local hippie artist and now knee-deep in psychedelic souvenirs and T-shirts. The kaleidoscope, in reality a 60ft-high converted grain silo, plays ten-minute sound and light shows throughout the day, and makes a tacky but entertaining roadside stop. (Wed-Mon 10am-7pm; $5; tel 1-888/303-3936).

Woodstock is a great base for exploring the Catskills, and the best option for accommodation is the cozy Twin Gables Guest House (tel 845/679-9479; $100-130), in the center of the village at 73 Tinker St. If this is full, as is often the case, the higher rates at Woodstock Lodge on Country Club Lane (tel 845/679-2814; $75-160) will get you a cabin and breakfast. Alternatively, there are chain motels like Howard Johnson , 2764 Hwy-32 (tel 845/246-9511; $50-75), ten miles northeast in Saugerties. Between Saugerties and Woodstock are the Rip Van Winkle (May-Oct; $23.50 per tentsite; tel 845/246-8334) and KOA (May-Oct; $25 per tentsite; tel 845/246-4089) campgrounds , both of which have full facilities for both tents and RVs. The best places to eat are a little way out of the village: the menu at the New World Home Cooking Company , 882 Rte-12 (April-Oct; tel 845/246-0900), has Caribbean and Creole-influenced dishes for under $10, while two miles west of Woodstock on Hwy-212 in tiny Bearsville , the Bear Café (tel 845/679-5555) serves French bistro food unparalleled in these parts with prices to match. Several buses each day take two and a half hours to reach Woodstock from New York City's Port Authority Bus Terminal (Adirondack Trailways; tel 1-800/858-8555). Sturdy bikes can be rented from Overlook Mountain Bikes, 93 Tinker St (Wed-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 11am-6pm, closed Tues; tel 845/679-2122).

For more information visit the Chamber of Commerce booth on Rock City Road just off the village green (hours vary; tel 845/679-6234), tune into the local radio station, WDST (100.1 FM), or pick up the weekly Woodstock Times .

Woodstock

• Woodstock

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