East of Joseph, marking the Idaho border, the Snake River has cut the deepest canyon on the continent, a thousand feet deeper than the Grand Canyon, with the Seven Devils mountains rising behind and the river glimmering in its depths. Perhaps best known as the site of an ill-fated 1974 motorcycle jump by daredevil Evel Knieval, Hells Canyon is a 130-mile gorge edged by a series of gradually ascending false peaks, which doesn't quite have the overwhelming impact of the steeper-walled Grand Canyon.

Formerly a winter retreat for the Nez Percé, the canyon zone is preserved as the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area : deer, otters, mink, black bears, mountain lions and elk live here, along with rattlesnakes and black widow spiders. Mechanical vehicles are banned above water-level in much of the canyon (motorized boats on the Snake are allowed), so you can only explore on foot or horseback. The forest roads that skirt the recreation area are rough and slippery, and many are closed by snow much of the year. If you intend to use them, check the official site at or with the rangers in Enterprise (tel 541/426-5546) or Baker City (tel 541/523-6391) before you go - bear in mind that summers aren't much easier as temperatures here regularly reach 100°F.

Of the two ways to approach the canyon from Oregon, the more difficult begins in Joseph. From here, Little Sheep Creek Highway leads to IMNAHA where a narrow and extremely precipitous graveled Forest Service road leads to the ultimate view from Hat Point , site of a campground and lookout tower. Beyond Hat Point, the road fades into a trail that leads to the bottom of the canyon, but to undertake this trek you must be very fit and well-equipped. The easier approach is at the south end of the canyon, along Hwy-86 east from Baker City. On the way, tiny HALFWAY (formerly named Half.com, after a website paid for the town's naming rights) makes a good stop-off, with accommodation at Halfway Motel , 170 S Main St (tel 541/742-5722, ; $35-50), and the five rooms in the rustic farmhouse of the Clear Creek Farm B&B , 48212 Clear Creek Rd (tel 541/742-2238, call for directions; ; $100-130).

From Halfway, Hwy-86 heads to the canyon, meeting the Snake River at Oxbow Dam, where a rough Forest Service road leads to Hells Canyon Dam , the launching-point for jet boat and raft trips through the canyon. Hells Canyon Adventures (tel 541/785-3352 or 1-800/422-3568, reservations required; ) and other companies run sightseeing tours in summer ($30 per person for a two-hour trip). Skimming over the rapids, the boats take you between deceptively low, bare hills to an old pioneer homestead. They also operate a "drop-off" service, taking you to hiking trails along the canyon and picking you up the same day or later in the week ($25-30 per person).

Hells Canyon

• Hells Canyon

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