The Alamo
(tel 210/225-1391,
) is the most famous - for reasons that have nothing to do with its original purpose - of a trail of Catholic missions established by the Spanish along remote stretches of the San Antonio River early in the eighteenth century. San Antonio's most distinctive landmark, it is smack in the center of downtown, but for a real sense of early Spanish influence in Texas, it's important to make an effort to get out and see the more distant, less visited missions. Each was laid out like a small fortified town, with the church as aesthetic and cultural focus. The goal was to strengthen Spanish control by "converting" the indigenous Coahuiltecan - in practice, using them as workforce and army. The missions flourished from 1745 to 1775, but couldn't survive the ravages of disease and attack from the Apache and Comanche, and fell into disuse early in the nineteenth century. To get a sense of the history of the Alamo, you could head first for the nearby
Rivercenter Mall
, where the battle is re-enacted on a six-story, Texas-scale IMAX screen (call 210/225-4629 for showtimes; $8.95); fact and sentiment may converge during the 45-minute presentation, but it takes a callous viewer not to be affected by the rousing patriotism of the finale.
The main
visitor center
(daily 9am-5pm; tel 210/932-1001) for the string of missions is next to Mission San Jose and contains a movie theater, small museum and giftshop.
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