The shortest drive between Zion and Bryce, along the Virgin River and then north on US-89 across the high plain of Long Valley, is spectacular enough, but the longer route through the maple and aspen groves of the Dixie National Forest is even more dramatic. Halfway between Cedar City and US-89, Hwy-148 cuts sharply north through the eerie fringes of CEDAR BREAKS NATIONAL MONUMENT ($4 per vehicle), where the soft sandstone has crumbled away from the edge of a high wooded plateau to create a fairyland amphitheater of bizarre and brilliantly colored formations.

Cedar Breaks is in a sense just a pocket version of Bryce Canyon to the east, but that's no reason not to come. Most of the plateau is over 10,000ft high, so it's usually quite cold; in fact the roads through are often blocked by snow until June. Point Supreme , with a small summer-only visitor center (June to mid-Oct daily 8am-6pm; tel 435/586-9451), snack bar and campground ($10), is a mile into the park from the south, and has the best view.

East of Cedar Breaks, Hwy-143 passes through pine forests and across lava flows, then drops past Panguitch Lake to reach the broad Sevier River valley at the squeaky-clean Mormon farming town of PANGUITCH . This holds eight gas stations, twenty-odd motels , such as the Marianna Inn , 699 N Main St (tel 435/676-8844 or 1-800/331-7407, ; $35-100), and not much else.

Cedar Breaks National Monument

• Cedar Breaks National Monument

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