SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK , which contains seemingly endless acres of dark forests, deep rocky ravines and precipitous, surging waterfalls, has one of the most unusual histories of any US national park. Far from being untouched for the past three hundred years, this "natural" landscape was created when hundreds of small family farms and homesteads were bought up by the state and federal governments during the Depression, and the land was left to revert to its natural state.

Shenandoah, meaning "river of high mountains," has one of the most scenic byways in the US, the Skyline Drive , a thin ribbon of pavement curving along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. It starts just off I-66 near the town of Front Royal , 75 miles west of DC, and winds south through the park, giving great views over the Piedmont to the east and lovely Shenandoah Valley to the west.

Admission to the park is $10 for cars and $5 for pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists; permits are good for six days. The views are especially fine, and the crowds especially large, in the fall, but at any time of year you can get the best of what the park has to offer by following one of the many hiking trails that split off from the ridge. One favorite leaves from the parking area of Big Meadows Lodge in the southern half of the park and winds along to tumbling Dark Hollow Falls ; another, leaving Skyline Drive at mile marker 45, climbs up a fairly treacherous incline to the top of Old Rag Mountain for 360° views out over the whole of Virginia and the Allegheny Mountains in the west. More ambitious hikers, or those who want to spend the night out in the backcountry, head for the Appalachian Trail ; details on any of these hikes, and free overnight camping permits, can be picked up at either of the visitor centers (mid-April-late Nov 8.30am-5pm; tel 540/999-3500, ), located along Skyline Drive four miles beyond the north entrance and at mile marker 51, in the middle of the park.

Three rustic lodges , near the center of the park, offer beds and food; reservations are handled by ARAMARK Services (tel 540/743-5108 or 1-800/999-4714, ). The northernmost and oldest, the 1894 Skyland Lodge , has cabins ($50-75) and modern hotel rooms ($100-130), as well as a large restaurant with panoramic views; Big Meadows Lodge , next to the larger visitor center ten miles south, has similar facilities and a campground; and Lewis Mountain has cabins ($50-75) and a first-come, first-served campground ($17). For more information on camping in the park call 1-800/365-2267.

Shenandoah National Park

• Shenandoah National Park

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