When Hwy-20 opened up the rugged North Cascades to an admiring public in 1972, the towns of the eastern foothills got together and created the Cascade Loop , a 350-mile round-trip that channeled tourist traffic their way, along highways 20, 153, 97 and 2 ( ). The complete trip is only feasible during the summer, since at other times snow closes the mountain passes, and can be rather exhausting if driven all at once. Unless you have at least three days to explore the territory in full, you're better off choosing a few selected treks through the gorgeous scenery. The towns themselves are best taken simply as bases for your travels, rather than as compelling destinations in their own right.

Hwy-20 begins its long journey inland at Anacortes , from where it crosses the coastal flatlands - passing the North Cascades National Park Information Center (Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm, open daily in summer; tel 360/856-5700, ) at Hwy-9 near Sedro Woolley. From here the highway threads through high mountain passes to tiny WINTHROP , an old mining town decked out in a Wild West get-up. As the original setting for Owen Wister's The Virginian , the burg's Western theme has proved popular with passing motorists, and if you'd like to stay look to either the Hotel Rio Vista , 285 Riverside Ave (tel 509/996-3535 or 1-800/398-0911, ; $75-100), or the Cascade Inn , 960 Hwy-20 (tel 509-996-3100 or 1-800/468-6754, ; $75-100), which both provide clean and basic rooms. As for eating options, the Winthrop Brewing Co , 155 Riverside Ave (tel 509/996-3183), offers solid microbrews like the excellent, unpasteurized Outlaw Pale Ale , and the Duck Brand Cantina , 248 Riverside Ave, (tel 509/996-2192) serves up cheap and tasty Mexican fare. The nearby visitors center , 202 Riverside Ave (tel 509/996-2125), has a good range of tourist information and backcountry permits.

North Cascades and the Cascade Loop

• North Cascades and the Cascade Loop

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