Washington DC: Georgetown

Buses #30, #32, #34, #35 or #36 from Pennsylvania Ave NW; or Foggy Bottom-GWU Metro and a 20min walk .

Amma Vegetarian Kitchen 3291 M St NW tel 202/625-6625. A scrumptious haven for strict vegetarians, this South Indian joint specializes in dosa - lentil and rice flour wraps - but also has very good curries and yummy breads.

Au Pied de Cochon 1335 Wisconsin Ave NW tel 202/333-5440. This casual, enjoyable 24hr bistro offers conservatory dining, breakfasts and great-value early-bird dinners (around $10).

Café la Ruche 1039 31st St NW tel 202/965-2684. Seek out this relaxing, inexpensive bistro away from M Street's maddening crowds, with patio seating ideal for dining alone or in twos. Count on the onion soup, quiches and croques or drop by for a pastry and an espresso. Open until 10pm (weekends until midnight).

Dean & Deluca 3276 M St NW tel 202/342-2500. The conservatory-style café and attached deli-market are in one of Georgetown's handsomest redbrick buildings. Open until 8pm (weekends 10pm).

Enriqueta's 2811 M St NW tel 202/338-7772. A creative menu (by DC standards) showcases authentic Mexican food - try the generous mussels appetizer - and excellent margaritas. Closed Sat lunch and Sun.

J Paul's 3218 M St NW tel 202/333-3450. The best of Georgetown's saloons is not cheap, but worth it for the famous crab cakes and house-brewed Amber Ale.

Old Glory 3139 M St NW tel 202/337-3406. At this rollicking barbecue restaurant - a good-time place with live R&B bands three nights a week - hickory smoke rises in earnest from the kitchen.

Paolo's 1303 Wisconsin Ave NW tel 202/333-7353. Designer Italian dining - gourmet pizzas and even better pasta - is your reward. Compete for the few sidewalk tables.

Saigon Inn 2928 M St NW tel 202/337-5588. Bargain lunch deals bring in the crowds - though the Vietnamese food is a bit too Westernized to be authentic.

Red Ginger 1564 Wisconsin Ave NW tel 202/965-7009. The colorful Caribbean bistro brings a splash of the islands to Georgetown, with plenty of rum for everyone. Dinner only.

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